Once we say Zamboanga Metropolis is colourful, we’re not simply referring to the color-blocked sail of the vinta or the rosy glow of Santa Cruz Grande Island’s Pink Seaside. The vividness of Asia’s Latin Metropolis goes past what the eyes can see. Its intricate historical past as a settlement and kaleidoscopic mixture of cultures are finest skilled by way of one other basic sense — the sense of style.
Ever heard of curacha?
If it sounds acquainted, it’s in all probability as a result of it reminds you of La Cucaracha, a Mexican people music a couple of cockroach that additionally turned fairly widespread within the Philippines. Curacha (in Chavacano) and cucaracha (in Spanish) imply the identical — cockroach. And it’s no shock provided that Chavacano, Zamboanga’s dominant language, is a Spanish-based Creole.
However earlier than you lose your urge for food, know that we’re not going to ask you to go full Concern Consider Zamboanga. As a substitute, we’re inviting you to have a style of essentially the most mouth-watering crustaceans that the area has to supply — spanner crabs!
Curacha obtained its title due to its spiky, furry look that kinda resembles you-know-what. However when you look intently, it kinda seems just like the love youngster of a large crab and an extended lobster. And since it packs extra meat and extra taste than the crabs we’re used to, they’re wanted. Fortunately, they thrive within the waters surrounding the area.
For a lot of, one of the best place to have a style of curacha is Alavar Seafood Restaurant, which serves curacha cooked in and doused with its well-known specialty sauce, which is constituted of coconut milk, aligue (crab roe paste) and varied spices. This tremendous wealthy sauce mixed with the seafood umami bombs which are curacha, you’ll by no means style different crab dishes the identical manner once more.
However be warned: It’s not low-cost. You possibly can order curacha by the kilo (minimal 1 kg). The final time we dined right here, a kilo of it in alavar sauce prices P1500 to P1700, relying on the dimensions of the crabs.
The sauce alone is unforgettable. It’s so widespread that vacationers drop by Alavar on the best way to the airport to take residence frozen packs of it.
Alavar Seafood Restaurant
Deal with: 173 Don Alfaro Avenue, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working Hours: Every day, 10:00 am – 10:00 pm
Specialty: Curacha in Alavar Sauce
However when you’d reasonably take residence freshly caught curacha, head over to Aderes Flea Market in Guiwan. You should buy raw curacha at a cheaper price right here, together with lobsters and different seafood.
How acquainted are you with Moro dishes? Somewhat bit? Not fairly? In no way?
In the event you stay in Metro Manila or close by areas, you in all probability haven’t tried it. (Or in my case earlier than my Zamboanga journey, not even heard of it.) We’re used to dishes from Luzon and Visayas. Many people are much more acquainted with international fare. So when in Zamboanga, have a style of Moro delicacies!
Greater than a 3rd of Zamboanga Metropolis’s inhabitants follow Islam. The Moros, Filipino Muslims, have developed a meals tradition that’s fascinatingly totally different from different areas. Whereas garlic, onions and ginger stay frequent substances, the Moros prefer to additionally use spices like galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime and turmeric, that are extra normal in our maritime Southeast Asian neighbors.
You’ll additionally discover that the Tausugs love utilizing coconut milk and — get this — burnt or charred coconut, which provides lots of its dishes its black look. It does look a little bit bit intimidating at first look, however belief me, it’s tremendous scrumptious. It doesn’t style burnt in any respect, however it offers depth and complexity to its style that’s fairly laborious to explain. You’ve gotta style it your self.
In Zamboanga Metropolis, essentially the most handy place for vacationers to pattern Moro dishes is Bay Tal Mal. It’s as a result of they serve latal (P959), which is a platter of varied Tausug dishes together with the next:
- Tiyulah itum (tiyula itum or tiulah itum, actually “black soup”), beef in black broth made with burnt coconut and spices.
- Beef kulma, beef cubes stewed in a curry sauce.
- Piyassak, beef liver cubes cooked with pounded spices, charred coconut and coconut milk
- Hen piyanggang, hen marinated in burnt coconut and varied spices after which grilled.
- Hen kaliya, hen stewed in coconut milk with lemongrass, turmeric, ginger and different spices.
- Beef adobo
- Fried fish
- Fried shrimp or squid
- Kiyaliya kapaya, papaya; or cucumber sambal (the sambal is so fab delish!)
Though not on the menu, I believe one of many dishes on our platter was utak-utak (fried fish cake).
You possibly can take pleasure in this platter of delicacies with rice. However we often add a plate of mee goreng (P259), which is served with laborious boiled egg. We simply love mie goreng so we order it every time we spot it on the menu. (LOL.) However they’ve much more gadgets on its menu.
Once I tried it for the primary time, Bay Tal Mal was nonetheless situated alongside Mayor Jaldon Avenue. Nevertheless it has since moved to the 4th stage of SM Mindpro.
Bay Tal Mal Restaurant
Deal with: 4th flooring, SM Mindpro, La Purisima Avenue, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working Hours: Monday-Thursday, 10:00 am – 8:00 pm; Friday, 9:00 am – 5:00 pm; Saturday-Sunday, 10:00 am – 9:00 pm
Specialty: Latal (platter of Tausug dishes)
One other restaurant that serves this Tausug tray of goodness is Dennis Espresso Backyard, located close to the airport. Right here, they name it dulang (P1100), however it’s principally the identical. However whereas Bay Tal Mal’s platter has 10 totally different dishes, Dennis’s has six.
Talking of Dennis Espresso Backyard…
Dennis Espresso Backyard‘s roots could be traced again all the best way to 1962 Jolo, Sulu, the place a small cafe known as Omar’s Place was established. Sixty years later, the title has modified and a number of branches have sprouted together with this one in Zamboanga Metropolis.
We already talked about the dulang or latal that they serve right here. However it’s extra well-known for one thing else — you guessed it — COFFEE! Dennis Espresso Backyard takes satisfaction of their genuine espresso known as the kahawa sug, which could be served sizzling or iced. It’s extra on the sturdy finish of the spectrum, so when you favor daring espresso, this may very well be for you! The iced model, nonetheless, is served with milk.
Other than Sulu espresso, it is usually widespread for his or her bangbang sug or native Tausug pastries. We labored up an urge for food earlier that day so we determined to order the entire gadgets on their snack menu! Moreover, we actually wished to attempt all of them! Every merchandise prices P95 now. The final time we visited (2022), it was solely P65.
- Jualan saing, deep-fried bananas with sweetened coconut dip (consider it as a deconstructed banana que)
- Jualan panggih, deep-fried candy potatoes with sweetened coconut dip (kind of a deconstructed camote que)
- Daral, crepe with candy filling product of coconut (filling tastes like bukayo)
- Panggih-panggih, deep-fried flour rings
- Wadjit, glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk (unavailable throughout our go to)
- Pitis, glutinous rice flour muffins with coconut filling, wrapped in banana leaves
- Patulakan, pounded rice with milk and grated coconut, wrapped in banana leaves
- Biyaki, grated candy corn muffins, wrapped in corn husks then steamed
We additionally ordered pastil, which has similarities to empanada with togue filling and served with a candy and spicy sauce. (We additionally tried pastil in Tawi-tawi however it had bihon noodles as filling.)
Out of all of this, we loved jualan saing, daral, biyaki and panggih-panggih essentially the most!
Dennis Espresso Backyard
Branches: San Jose Highway (Baliwasan), KCC Mall Zamboanga Metropolis, Yubengco (Tetuan), and Southern Heights (La Paz)
Specialty: Kahawa sug (Sulu espresso) and Bangbang sug (Tausug pastries)
As we explored Zamboanga Metropolis, we couldn’t assist however discover that plenty of institutions serve so-called satti. We even noticed plenty of regular-looking homes with indicators that learn, “We serve satti”. It obtained us extremely curious! Satti seems like satay (hen satay, beef satay), so I had my concepts on what it may very well be. However many satti signages had illustrations of bowls, not sticks of meat, which confused us at first.
Properly, properly, it turned out that satti is certainly just like satay (grilled skewered meat). However on this a part of the world, it’s often served half-dipped in a bowl of red-orange spicy sauce with cubes of molded rice. And to my shock, that is truly a breakfast favourite! Nothing beats a spicy kick to begin the day!
Once we requested the locals (principally tricycle drivers) for one of the best satti place within the metropolis, all fingers pointed at Jimmy’s Satti Meals Haus. Sadly, as a result of time constraints, we didn’t pay a go to. Too unhealthy!
(That mentioned, we have been capable of attempt satti at Dennis Espresso Backyard! I’m a sucker for something grilled and spicy, so it was love at first chew for me. I nonetheless want I obtained to attempt Jimmy’s although. However I suppose this offers me a purpose to return to Zamboanga!)
Jimmy’s Satti Meals Haus
Deal with: Pilar Avenue, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working hours: 3:30 am – 5:30 pm
Specialty: Satti
In the event you’re craving pork, you could be shocked to know that one space in Zamboanga has mastered the artwork of constructing lechon! Sure, entire pig roasted to perfection! Right here in Tetuan, lechon is offered at kiosks stationed alongside the highway. And there are many them right here!
I used to be fairly shocked to study it at first as a result of town has a big Muslim inhabitants. Earlier than setting foot right here for the primary time, I initially (mistakenly) assumed that pork — a staple protein in Pinoy kitchens elsewhere — can be notably absent in most elements of town as a result of it’s forbidden in Islam. However there it was, a avenue lined with pork lechon stalls promoting kilo after kilo of suckling pig.
Once we requested locals for suggestions, one institution that was constantly talked about was Prince Tasty Lechon. They’ve a number of stalls all through town, however we selected the one in Tetuan, only a quick stroll from Alavar.
Like others beside it, Prince is a small stall with a suckling pig on show as a workers member chops away. You possibly can ask for a bit of the crispy pores and skin to have a style. A kilo prices P550 (as of January 2025, it’s now P600). You may as well order half a kilo, which is at P350. You possibly can have it as an entire slab or have it chopped.
Tetuan lechon is commonly in comparison with Cebu’s extra well-known model. When you style it, it’s not obscure why. It’s simply so flavorful! The pores and skin is tremendous crispy however not laborious; it breaks with the gentlest of bites. The meat is moist, juicy and tender. The mixture of calamansi, garlic, onions, pepper, bay leaf and different herbs seeps so deep into the meat. We weren’t given any sauce. Unsure if it truly is eaten with out it or the workers simply forgot. However regardless, there’s no want for it.
If a kilo or half a kilo continues to be an excessive amount of for you, you possibly can order a combol meal from Prince Foodcourt, situated on Estrada Avenue, only a quick stroll from their stall alongside Don Alfaro Avenue. For P150, the set consists of 200 grams of lechon, two cups of rice, a small bowl of soup, and a drink.
Prince Tasty Lechon Fastfood
Deal with: Estrada Avenue, Tetuan, Zamboanga Metropolis
Open: 9:00 am – 9:00 pm
To date, we’ve already coated principally predominant programs and heavy proteins. How about we transfer on to dessert?
Right here in Zamboanga Metropolis, no different dessert has reached the legendary standing of the knickerbocker. The what?
Knickerbocker! Consider it because the fruitier, more healthy stepsister of the halo-halo. This loopy colourful concoction is a mixture of jellies and contemporary fruits like watermelon, apple, pineapply and mango, drizzled with condensed milk and topped with strawberry ice cream. It’s vibrant, candy, and creamy, good for laundry down no matter lunch or dinner you had.
Nowadays, you possibly can take pleasure in a cup from distributors at Paseo del Mar, however when you’re after the unique, head over to Hacienda de Palmeras Resort and Restaurant, extensively thought to be the institution that invented this tropical dessert. The restaurant is about in a backyard in a quiet nook of town, however nonetheless simply accessible by jeepney or tricycle.
Hacienda de Palmeras Resort and Restaurant
Deal with: Pasonanca Highway, Sta. Maria, Zamboanga Metropolis
Working Hours: Wednesday-Friday, 10:00 am – 10:00 pm; Saturday-Tuesday, 10:00 am – 8:00 pm
Specialty: Seafood and Knickerbocker
In fact! Any TPT journey isn’t full with out pillaging the parks and again alleys for some good old style avenue meals! These on a regular basis accessible munchies inform so much concerning the place, its folks, and its tradition. You’ll find avenue meals wherever, particularly in busy areas like the general public market and across the metropolis corridor.
Normal Pinoy faves like kikiam, fish balls and banana que can be found, however you’ll additionally discover one thing distinctive to the area. My favourite is chikalang. No, not chika lang. Chikalang! It’s a glutinous rice cake rolled in brown sugar. It’s similar to pilipit or karioka, solely larger, denser, heavier and really very purple.
It’s often among the many many gadgets on peddlers’ bilao. We had it at Paseo del Mar!
R.T. Lim Boulevard additionally hosts plenty of avenue meals distributors. A few of the avenue meals selections are satay or “ihaw-ihaw”, pastil, and lokot-lokot. You’ll additionally discover balut and penoy as quickly because the solar begins to set.
On our final go to, we observed locals promoting one thing in styrofoam containers. Curious, we approached one and requested what was inside. To our (pleasant) shock, it was mie goreng! It’s served with fried egg on high and a calamansi on the facet, and drizzled with sizzling sauce. At the moment, we snagged it for less than P35!
Coincidentally, we have been simply speaking about craving noodles simply moments earlier than so we didn’t even give it some thought! We additionally had a pleasant dialog with Kuya Jul, the vendor, as we stuffed our face with noodles.
It’s fully doable to attempt all of the eating places and meals spots talked about above by yourself. In your itinerary, you possibly can insert a lunch or dinner cease, whichever is closest to the realm you’re exploring that day. (We’ll publish a pattern itinerary, so you’ll want to verify again quickly.)
But when you need a extra insightful expertise, you could be part of a Meals and Tradition Tour, supplied by iTravel Vacationer Lane, led by Errold Bayona.
It was truly Errold who launched to us these wonderful foodie locations years in the past. So once I lately returned to Zamboanga, I already knew the place to go to eat.
It’s possible you’ll contact them by way of any of the next:
We paid for the entire meals featured on this put up.
Now we have tried three totally different motels in Zamboanga and all of them have been respectable and nice:
If in case you have a much bigger funds, you may additionally take a look at these different properties within the space:
2025 2 1 – Up to date data together with opening hours and costs
2022 6 5 – First uploaded
Phrases by: Yosh Dimen
Images by: Yosh Dimen & Vins Carlos
