They are saying don’t meet your heroes. In the case of journey, I admit, I generally really feel the identical. While you’ve admired a lot about a spot for therefore lengthy — and most of it’s rooted in what you’ve been instructed or watched on the silver display — there’s so much to be stated for permitting the fantasy to reside on, untainted. That’s how, regardless of travelling the size and breadth of Italy during the last two-and-a half many years and dwelling right here for the final 5 years, the Amalfi Coast has sadly eluded me.
There was another excuse, in fact. The Amalfi Coast is extensively referred to as someplace you wish to do ‘correctly’. So, once I was invited to go to Casa Angelina — a lodge as heavenly as its identify suggests — in Praiano, I RSVP’d faster than you’ll be able to say ‘dolce far niente’. In spite of everything these years, I did in fact have some pre-conceptions of Italy’s most well-known shoreline. On one hand: these photographs of Jackie O, Lee Radziwill, Elizabeth Taylor et al of their OG jet-set splendour. Iconic. On the opposite: the crowds, the site visitors, the noise! Not a lot.
Having curled our approach via sizzling and heaving Sorrento and Positano earlier than arriving at Praiano on an October afternoon (‘Apparently there’s no quiet season right here,’ I quipped to Mr Smith) I used to be beginning to fear that my considerations have been warranted. I needn’t have. As we pulled as much as the doorway of Casa Angelina and descended the lengthy and winding non-public highway to the lodge, a palpable sense of leaving the noise on the door and sliding into one other universe washed over us.
Perched on the sting of a cliff, basking in a glow courtesy of the late-afternoon solar bouncing off pure white partitions, Casa Angelina’s atmosphere is straight away disarming and enjoyable. Inside moments of arriving, our automobile had been whisked away together with our baggage, we have been checked in, handed an iced lemon water on the rooftop searching to the Sorrento Peninsula, and given just a little tour of the lodge earlier than we have been proven to our room.
If, like me, you adhere to the varsity of thought that good first impressions are every thing, then once I say strolling into our deluxe nook sea-view room took my breath away, you’d onerous relate to how impressed I used to be. It takes very particular interior-design talent to infuse such a minimalist room with so many considerate particulars, with out it feeling fussy within the slightest.
As my eyes darted round, I clocked the bedside state of affairs. Any author will inform you the way in which to their coronary heart is thru distinctive stationery. Ready for me lay stunning Casa Angelina-branded writing paper, a classy silver ball-point pen and a pencil that the lodge created in collaboration with Faber-Castell. Element swoon.
Extra finely tuned particulars have been revealed: on the sideboard, contemporary pears and peaches picked from the lodge orchard under posed plumply alongside e-book releases I’d been determined to get my palms on (howdy, culinary compilation The Gourmand’s Lemon). Within the lavatory, essentially the most beautiful Diptyque toiletries (I’m a die-hard fan), a Dyson hairdryer and straightener — double element swoon. And within the walk-in wardrobe, a Steamery garments steamer — already on my private wishlist — was crammed with lavender-scented water and all method of lint, brush and sharpening accoutrements. A hattrick of element swoons.
As we have been hitting aperitivo hour, we determined to dress up in our Amalfi finest — linen trousers, a pressed t-shirt and a box-fresh pair of Rivieras for Mr Smith; a navy t-shirt and white trousers for me — and headed all the way down to the Seascape Bar to absorb the sundown over Capri within the distance.
We had already stopped for an osteria lunch on the drive to Casa Angelina, however discuss turned to nibbles. As if by magic, tomatoes cooked with sunflower seeds from the orto (kitchen backyard) and home-cooked, fennel-infused taralli biscuits arrived. As the sunshine dimmed, we have been handed torches for studying the cocktail menu. Marvelling at how pristine the partitions regarded in torchlight, Mr Smith was instructed that the workforce contact them up with paint day by day. ‘Each single day!’ he gasped. Particulars, particulars.
The next morning, contemporary from the sleep of all sleeps, nestled within the silkiest cotton sheets spritzed with a lavender pillow spray left throughout turndown, we determined to discover the coast in our favorite approach: by Vespa. We had talked about it the day gone by, and the lodge had instantly made certain one was ready for us after we had inhaled a breakfast of omelettes, espressos, homegrown fruit and — to my delight — panettone.
Geared up with chilled bottles of water handed to us by the entrance desk, we drove again up in the direction of the coast highway on our shiny purple scooter, giddy from being again on two wheels collectively after so lengthy. On our ascent, I seen a black Volkswagen Golf being sprayed down in what regarded like a full valet service. ‘Oh my god, they’re cleansing our automobile!’ shouted Mr Smith above the Vespa’s vrooms. I laughed, considering he was joking and assuming our very common automobile was another person’s. Reader, it was certainly our automobile.
A key piece of recommendation right here: if you wish to discover native Positano, or every other little village alongside this stretch, a Vespa is the one method to do it and actually take pleasure in it. Inside quarter-hour, we had buzzed previous buses and automobiles and crowds already queuing to achieve the money-shot spots, and had parked up, ordered a cappuccino and have been having fun with the view. If we had extra time, we might have hopped all the way down to a seaside there, however we had lunch plans and wished to buzz round close by Nerano alfresco earlier than then. Lunch was booked at Da Adolfo on the lodge’s advice, who had despatched me a superbly curated information to the Amalfi Coast the week earlier than our arrival.
Located in a sandy cove, Da Adolfo is simply accessible to diners from the water, which signifies that whereas it’s an Instagram favorite, it’s by no means swarmed — as soon as the tables are booked, that’s it. Identical to Positano, you’ll be able to arrive by bus after which take a communal boat, however if you wish to have a super-romantic arrival, have the lodge rent you a personal water-taxi return switch like we did. It could solely sail a few coves over, nevertheless it’s value each cent.
Because the waves lapped up on the shore and teams disembarked from fishing boats, we devoured spaghetti vongole, Caprese salads and tiramisu (don’t mess with the classics), washed down with dry white wine. Often, that is an all-afternoon sort of place the place you’ll be able to deliver your bikini and towels and take a swim post-lunch, however we wished to go again to the lodge to unwind.
On returning, the plan was to stoop straight right into a siesta, however that was placed on maintain once I seen particular housekeeping touches in our room. Our studying glasses had been polished and wrapped in branded material; our tangle of cables and chargers had been unwound and tied in branded Velcro; the fruit tray had been refreshed together with a vase of lovely native hydrangeas. ‘I really like that,’ stated Mr Smith, undoubtedly referring to the cable state of affairs. ‘So considerate,’ I agreed, placing on my tremendous shiny glasses, choosing up my e-book and sinking into freshly plumped pillows.
That night, we had booked dinner on the legendary Da Gemma trattoria in Amalfi city (I had been listening to about this native icon for years), and so hung onto the Vespa for a night spin there and again. Contemporary fish of the day marinated in oil, lemon juice and capers hit the spot, as did the lemon sorbet and limoncello to complete (when in Amalfi). On our return to the lodge, the scooter was whisked away and our toes led us again to our spot by the bar for a nightcap.
If Casa Angelina is outlined by its consideration to particulars, then behold its cocktail menu. Mr Smith opted for the Angelina Espresso (15-year-old Matusalem rum, Saquella espresso, home made caramel syrup and Amaro Montenegro), whereas I went for The Lemon Pergola (lemon-infused Malfy Gin, lemon juice and bitters, Earl Gray-infused syrup and soda). We savoured every sip as two chocolate truffles appeared in entrance of us and we talked of how attentive but unobtrusive the service had been, as Elvis’ Can’t Assist Falling in Love tinkled on the piano within the background. How apt: it’s not possible to not fall in love with Casa Angelina — the atmosphere, the serenity, the small print. It exceeded all my expectations after which some. My new hero on the Amalfi Coast, one which I solely want I’d known as on sooner.
Learn extra about Casa Angelina or see extra resorts on the Amalfi Coast
