By London requirements, Clerkenwell is comparatively low-key. It’s lighter on postcard sights and leaves hipster swagger to Shoreditch subsequent door, and other people truly dwell round its serene Georgian backyard squares (a phrase of warning: you’ll by no means be extra tempted to purchase a townhouse). However its laidback really feel masks centuries of political dynamism, eating revolutions and historic intrigue, which you’ll be able to uncover with out these pesky vacationer hordes.
Our information to a weekend break within the Clerkenwell space exhibits you the London eating places that modified the best way town eats (and are thought of a few of its greatest), markets each visceral and vibrant, mediaeval relics and mod design, and provides you a contact of the Dickens. Plus, we’ve shortlisted the neighbourhood’s coolest accommodations.
WHAT NOT TO MISS
Let’s begin from the very starting at Properly Courtroom, the place the Twelfth-century nicely the neighbourhood is called after could be considered by appointment. There’s solely so lengthy you may stare at a gap within the floor, so swing south in the direction of Farringdon, pausing as you go to snap photos of St Paul’s Cathedral’s magnificent dome within the close to distance. The very-early-morning meat slinging of Smithfield Market is unfortunately attributable to finish in 2026, however the London Museum will probably be shifting into its spectacularly storied Victorian constructing (which has a powerful tiled dome of its personal). Right here’s the place wives had been as soon as bought in lieu of divorce, new ‘bumarees’ (porters) obtained an offal-splattered initiation, and William ‘Braveheart’ Wallace was hung, drawn and quartered — a bit additional south, on the outer wall of St Bartholomew Hospital (close to the carpark), you’ll discover his memorial plaque. From there amble down Cock Lane, the place 18th-century Londoners would conduct séances to commune with the ghost of a poor deceased resident dubbed ‘scratching Fanny’ (as a result of she allegedly clawed on the partitions), which was later revealed to be a hoax. We’re not making this up, we swear.
You’ll be able to go to Charterhouse’s uncommon Tudor stays and monkishly quiet cloister gardens free of charge, or guide a tour to listen to tales of philanthropy and the plague. And contained in and across the photogenically turreted St John’s Gate — exterior which Shakespeare’s performs had been typically first carried out — is a museum in regards to the namesake historical spiritual order and its St John’s Ambulance legacy. Close by, in stark distinction, is architect Amin Taha’s 15 Clerkenwell Shut, a divisive ultra-modern construction with a stone exoskeleton, and the Zaha Hadid Basis the place the visionary designer’s works are showcased. Each are nods to the inventive present right here, which runs strongest throughout Might’s annual Clerkenwell Design Week, when a whole bunch of installations pop up all through the neighbourhood.
There’s a unique sort of radicalism at play on the Marx Memorial Library, the place Lenin revealed his Iskra paper, and at present left-leaning talks are held. Charles Dickens’ forays into Farringdon’s slums impressed him to advocate for higher social circumstances in his writings — each Oliver Twist and Nicholas Nickleby had been written at his former house on Doughty Avenue, now a museum. For teenagers, The Postal Museum would possibly sound as a lot enjoyable as licking an envelope, however its mini prepare rides alongside decommissioned vintage supply tunnels up the joys issue; or stoke a love of Roald Dahl and different beloved kids’s books on the Quentin Blake Centre for Illustration. On the far north of the neighbourhood, there’s dance and drama at Sadler’s Wells Theatre.
WHERE TO BREAKFAST
One of the enduring legacies of Italian immigration to the Clerkenwell space within the 18th century is a sure culinary area of interest: eateries which can be half deli, half ‘greasy spoon’ café. Take La Forchetta (92 Cowcross Avenue), who’ll pile each single configuration of meat and egg right into a panini, at costs that’ll make you overlook its Comedian Sans signal. However the realest deal is beloved Beppe’s: it’s a leather-based sales space, squeezy plastic ketchup bottles and real household photographs on the wall kinda place — discuss to whoever’s serving they usually’ll fortunately regale you with tales from the cafe’s previous.
Alternatively, attempt to beat the locals to a desk at Cafe Maya (114 Farringdon Street), famend for its low-cost and cheerful nature; or discover brunch with a extra unique bent (maple-sesame granola with spiced yoghurt, jalapeño cornbread with mojo verde) at Caravan.
WHERE TO GET A COFFEE
Briki specialises in kick-to-your-head Greek-style espresso, cult espresso freddos and different wonderful iced drinks, all sourced from roasters in Athens. Pair with one thing flaky and scrumptious like spanakopita or bougatsa. On Leather-based Lane, workers at Prufrock will give even the nerdiest coffee-lovers a run for his or her cash, and as a lot thought is put into the provenance of their meals as their beans. For those who’re as enthusiastic as they’re, guide certainly one of their day-courses in brewing, latte artwork and extra. On a sunny day, swing by the Clerkenwell Kiosk for a espresso and ice-cream cone to take pleasure in in surrounding St James’ Gardens.
SHOPPING AND STYLE
For quirky independents and under-the-radar classic, Clerkenwell’s obtained you lined. Begin your spree alongside Exmouth Market: get cheeky Letterpress prints, impolite beanies and Victorian Brothel candles at Marby and Elm; playful presents at Area EC1; impact-making bouquets and flower-crowns at Botanique Workshop (the place flower-arranging courses are held too). Pennies Classic specialises in romantic, floaty and spangled special-occasion put on, whereas Gown for Much less focuses on pre-loved labels. Lloyd & Son on Lloyd Baker Avenue would possibly say ‘dairy produce’ on its classic signal, however inside you’ll solely discover the cream of old-school homewares.
Very particular pursuits are catered to at MagCulture, the place the labour-of-love ‘zine thrives and business insiders pop in for talks; however it’s also possible to get the newest problems with Luncheon, Starvation, Crotch and extra at Magma on Clerkenwell Street. There’s a really satisfying meticulousness to the best way stationary store Current & Right lays out its easy but lovely objects (an aesthetic it rocks on its pleasurable journal too). And Antoni & Alison favours the massive, daring and barely mad in its clothes and accessories; the store has a captivating tearoom too.
WHERE TO EAT
St John
‘For those who’re going to kill the animal, it appears solely well mannered to make use of the entire thing,’ mentioned St John restaurant founder and star chef Fergus Henderson, and with that philosophy in thoughts he began a sustainability revolution. The primary outpost in Farringdon nonetheless pulls in carnivores for offal-led dishes in stylishly spartan environment, and the bone marrow on toast with parsley salad stays a basic. Different eateries with meaty reputations embody RC Macellaio and Nineteenth-century High quality Chop Home, the place the confit potatoes are a should and informal sister eatery High quality Wines subsequent door does a really affordable categorical lunch.
Brutto is a superb Italian, with engaging £5 Negronis — there’s by no means a nasty time to cease in for pasta, however lunchtimes on the counter are a bit calmer; and Le Café du Marché is a romantic, rustic French spot with candlelight and dwell music. Dinner at Periods Arts Membership would possibly make anybody swoon, with its pale glamour, cool crowd and eloquent menu, if not on the truth you scored a reservation within the first place. Sushi Tetsu (12 Jerusalem Passage) is one other with aggressive covers (seven in whole) the place your efforts will probably be nicely rewarded.
It’s not all trotters and slabs of steak — alongside Exmouth Market, vegans and vegetarians can search refuge in Center Japanese Moro (and sister outfit Morito) and Berber & Q Shawarma Bar, the place brightly flavoured mezze and wraps give greens the benefit. Across the nook there’s The Eagle, credited with inventing the gastropub, whose menus — chalked up on the board twice a day — have crammed seats for greater than 30 years.
DRINKING SPOTS
You’ll have an uncanny feeling that you simply’ve time-travelled in Clerkenwell’s pubs — many are clocking up the centuries, retaining unique creaky flooring and vintage particulars that solely add to their allure. The 18th-century Holy Tavern is tiny and wonky and fantastic; if you may get the desk on prime of the little raised platform, you’re actually blessed. It feels particularly ‘ye olde’ on Tuesdays, when it’s lit by candlelight solely. Ye Olde Mitre is tucked right into a teeny alleyway close to Farringdon; it’s much more aged, established in 1546, however the interiors have had a little bit of a spit and shine through the years. And in more moderen historical past, Lenin loved a pint in shabby-chic Crown Tavern.
Coin Laundry has a Seventies really feel to it and brings the enjoyable with comedy and DJ nights, whereas there’s a inexperienced streak as refreshing because the herbaceous cocktails on the lovely Bourne & Hollingsworth Buildings. Wine lovers, observe your nostril to Farringdon’s department of Vinoteca or let it lead you a bit additional west to Noble Rot on Lamb’s Conduit; most wines you discover notably quaffable — and there will probably be many — you should buy on the restaurant’s store, Shrine to the Vine, just some doorways down.
NIGHTLIFE
It’s not fairly lights-up but for famed membership Material, housed in a former meatpacking warehouse, however it has had some shut calls through the years; nonetheless it retains on arising, giving Londoners who love late electro nights a house. Shut by, in one other disused warehouse, The Piano Works has a dwell band and an excellent livelier crowd, plus throwback Thursdays and late finishes. Or divert your dancing power to play ping-pong until 1am at Bounce, the place AI tables can observe your prowess — simply watch these paddles after just a few Pornstar Martinis.
WHERE TO STAY
The Zetter Townhouse Lodge
Behind an eau de nil-hued door in cobbled St John Sq. is the house of Aunt Wilhelmina, a globetrotter, raconteur, lover of the humanities and gents callers — you’ll discover a image of her hanging in The Zetter Townhouse Lodge’s lounge. Sadly, she’s not actual, however the. dedication to cocktail craft, daring British design (courtesy of style fave Russell Sage) and moreish maximalism is as genuine as could be. Then again, The Rookery Lodge is unquestionably not mendacity about its age, and has the beams and stone fireplaces to show it, alongside hefty four-poster beds, dramatic velvet drapes and stern portraiture all through. We particularly like the lavatory within the Rook’s Nest, the place a statue retains guard as you bathe.
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